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Developing Colour Film as an Absolute Beginner

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January 30th member posted

I've been filming for more than 10 years, but I didn't have to develop it at home. The lab always did a wonderful job. And I lived in a small apartment, went on a trip, and didn't care about spending money to save time.

Even if I started scanning films to get better results, I didn't need my home development yet.

However, since the new puppy came, it became difficult to go to the town every month, and the time in the apartment became longer.

It may sound like you're forced to develop film, but not. Rather, I would like to think that film development at home is a privilege that has a certain responsibility, very cool science, and creative expression. It was gently pushed my back in my lucky situation in my life.

C-41, beginner-friendly process.

I decided to start with the C-41 (Color Nega process). It is also the lowest threshold process.

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Acceptance of Fountain Hills, Arizona: Desert jewelry

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January 30th member posted

Even if I started scanning films to get better results, I didn't need my home development yet.

However, since the new puppy came, it became difficult to go to the town every month, and the time in the apartment became longer.

C-41, beginner-friendly process.

I decided to start with the C-41 (Color Nega process). It is also the lowest threshold process.

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Category: Uncategorized

I lost me with algorithm

Acceptance of Fountain Hills, Arizona: Desert jewelry

Fountain Hills, Arizona, desert jewelry!

Board supports Sendelos in Fountain Hills

January 30th member posted

Even if I started scanning films to get better results, I didn't need my home development yet.

However, since the new puppy came, it became difficult to go to the town every month, and the time in the apartment became longer.

C-41, beginner-friendly process.

I decided to start with the C-41 (Color Nega process). It is also the lowest threshold process. In general advice, it is better to start with a monochrome film that does not require temperature control. But I don't know if it's true in 2023:

With a plastic tub and a Suvid cooker, temperature control is easy. On the other hand, monochrome film development may be puzzled by the number of un standardized development options. Regardless of the ISO, color granegaphilm is the same for the development temperature and time. The monochrome film will be examined from dozens of options, such as chemicals, timings, and diluted fluids, examining Massive Dev Chart.

However, development of color films has aspects that require particular attention, such as safety. The chemicals used in the C-41 process are corrosive and must be discarded with responsibility. It is necessary to be very careful not to spill or touch the skin. Nevertheless, this process is as dangerous as drainage pipe cleaning agents or bleached agents.

CINESTILL CS41 COLOUR SIMPLIFIED powder concentrated development solution.

Tools and chemicals.

As a beginner for film development at home, I rely on advice from Daren (writing a blog in Learn Film Photograph). Also, since the package of Cinestill was the easiest to understand, I was attracted to it (it seemed easy for some powdered packs to be lined up, but when there were various sizes, it was simple. My brain was confused).

CINESTILL FILM CS Folding type 2 cake accordion storage bottles. Save the storage space and make the bricks last longer.

The shopping list of everything you need to develop film at home is honestly long. It cost about $ 270 in total. At the time of writing this article, I used it for development of 35mm/36EXP. 9 films.

At this point, I am overwhelming the film development fee. However, if you continue developing at home, I think that the same amount of films will be about $ 30 to $ 40 (it may be cheaper because it will be an experiment to extend the development time as the drug runs out). Or it costs about $ 3-5 per roll.

If you intend to develop a color film at home, you need to shop a little. But at least you'll know what to buy:

🧪 CINESTILL FILM CS41 Powder development kit for color film. You can now get 1L chemicals. Alternatively, you can get a liquid drug.

Note: Some C-41 chemical kits come with a stabilizer. You can omit it unless you develop a film produced before the 1990s.

⚗️ CINESTILL FILM CS Folding type 2 accordion storage bottles (1000ml each). I like this bottle because it does not take up space by folding it, but can reduce the oxygen of bricks, that is, to extend the storage period.

⚗️Cinestill film ° CS 1000ml Mixing Jug/ Pitcher (any plastic jug with a 1000ml mark).

🌡 CINESTILL FILL FILL FILL FILL FILL FILL CS TEMPERATULE CONTROL SYSTEM TCS-1000. The reason for this tool is that it is safe to put a tool in a liquid and mix chemicals because it uses a corrosion-resistant ceramic element. 。 You can also use the kitchen Suvid tool, but it is not recommended to put it directly into the chemical solution. Film development tools should never be used for food cooking. ⚗️ Patterson Super System 4 Universal Development Tank and Reel. The 1L chemical powder fits neatly.

SENSEI LARGE Change Bag. In the complete darkness, everything you need for the prepared film reel.

📩 Print File 35mm Archival Storage PageS for Negative. If you are going to give it to a local lab or friend for digitalization and printing, you need a way to store your own film.~Paterson Film Squeegee 🧼. This is indispensable to remove the negative water spot. This cannot be used when developing only the medium format film. Instead, you should use a cloth that does not come out.~This tool can take out the film reader from a 35mm film canister and u p-cycle. This is not necessary if you develop only the medium format film.

🛁 A large plastic tub. Warm water to 38 ° C and use the chemical solution at that temperature.

🌡 A kitchen thermometer to confirm that the chemicals in the bottle have become appropriate.

✏ Masking tape and marker to clearly attach labels to chemicals.

Rubber or latex gloves and white coats. I didn't use it, but I recommend wearing gloves.

Work space.

To develop film at home, you need a sink, water, a plug for Subid / TCS-1000, and aspects to put everything. It is also convenient to have a trash can and a paper towel. Most bathrooms are enough (it's a good idea to make a reservation for 2 hours so that you don't disturb the shower time or to secure space when you need it).

Before mixing the chemicals: If you want to use S u-Vid, you need a lukewarm tub. Put the water level between the device "min" and "MAX". Use 2L of water warmed at 38 ° C/100 ℉.

Cinestill film ° C temperature control system is mixed with TCS-1000.

Mixing chemicals

The first thing to do is mix the powder. This must be done only once, and after the old chemical expiration date has expired, it is repeated only when the new chemical is obtained. Click here for how to check if the expiration date of chemicals has expired.

Note: One reader pointed out that it is important to mask when mixing powdered chemicals.

Cinestill CS41 Colour Simplified The powdered powdered kit is three pouches, and the saving period is indefinite*(before mixed). The development solution is 2-6 weeks*, and the brick mixture is 8-12 weeks*.

Powdered chemicals are mixed at about 38 ° C/100 ℉.

✱ -According to CINESTILL, there is no clear expiration date because the storage conditions and pollution rate of the chemicals cannot be predicted. This includes contact with oxygen, temperature, and development rolls. At the moment, the most secure estimated value can be used without any problems after a few days.

👉 C-41 chemicals must be mixed at 38 ° C/100 ℉. The Cinestill TCS-1000 is okay if you sip it well before putting it in the brick solution. If you have a kitchen Suvid, avoid putting it in chemicals. Instead, use the water to dilute the powder, and use a stirring rod to mix everything well.

The following is my case:

Mix the coloring agent. According to the instructions, 600 ml of water was put in a plastic pitcher and heated, and the powder of the manifestation was added while mixing until the crystal or precipitation disappeared. < SPAN> To develop film at home, you need a sink, water, plug for Subid / TCS-1000, and aspects to put everything. It is also convenient to have a trash can and a paper towel. Most bathrooms are enough (it's a good idea to make a reservation for 2 hours so that you don't disturb the shower time or to secure space when you need it).

Before mixing the chemicals: If you want to use S u-Vid, you need a lukewarm tub. Put the water level between the device "min" and "MAX". Use 2L of water warmed at 38 ° C/100 ℉.

Cinestill film ° C temperature control system is mixed with TCS-1000.

Mixing chemicals

Note: One reader pointed out that it is important to mask when mixing powdered chemicals.

Powdered chemicals are mixed at about 38 ° C/100 ℉.

The following is my case:

Mix the coloring agent. According to the instructions, 600 ml of water was put in a plastic pitcher and heated, and the powder of the manifestation was added while mixing until the crystal or precipitation disappeared. To develop film at home, you need a sink, water, a plug for Subid / TCS-1000, and aspects to put everything. It is also convenient to have a trash can and a paper towel. Most bathrooms are enough (it's a good idea to make a reservation for 2 hours so that you don't disturb the shower time or to secure space when you need it).

Before mixing the chemicals: If you want to use S u-Vid, you need a lukewarm tub. Put the water level between the device "min" and "MAX". Use 2L of water warmed at 38 ° C/100 ℉. Cinestill film ° C temperature control system is mixed with TCS-1000.

Mixing chemicals

Note: One reader pointed out that it is important to mask when mixing powdered chemicals.

Powdered chemicals are mixed at about 38 ° C/100 ℉.

The following is my case:

When everything looks homogeneous, pour the hot water into 1L into the pitcher, mix it further, and pour the solution into a (foldable) bottle. It was said that it is important to put a label so that it does not fail during film development (good advice).

The "D" label is affixed to the cap and bottle on the bottle of the developed solution (to prevent mistakes). The brick bottle says "BX".

The next step is to add the powder of the package with "Part B" to a storage bottle containing "Part A" solution. This caused a thermal absorption reaction, and the bottle was slightly warmed in the next 5 minutes.

While warming the solution a little, we had to go back and forth between the storage bottle and the plastic pitcher. Then, when it became homogeneous, when the crystals and precipitations were gone, we finally poured into the pitcher again and filled with 1L lukewarm water. Finally, the brick solution was put in a storage bottle. The air was carefully squeezed so that there is almost no air inside and sealed.

CINESTILL CS41 COLOUR SIMPLIFIED powder concentrated kit.

Load a 35mm film into Patterson Reel.

As the chemicals are ready, we will start developing. By loading a film into a putter sort tank that does not allow light, it will be possible to develop without a dark room.

At the beginning, I put water in a large plastic tub on the Sue Video/TCS-1000 min and the MAX mark (about half/3Gal).

3gal/

10L) was inserted and the temperature was set to 39 ° C / 102 ℉. Then, I put two bottles with the cap closed in the water.

Note: The loading of the medium format film is explained in the following chapter.

For film development, warm a large plastic tub containing C-41 chemicals. < SPAN> When everything appears to be homogenous, pour the hot water into 1L into the pitcher, mix further, and pour the solution into a (foldable) bottle. It was said that it is important to put a label so that it does not fail during film development (good advice).

The "D" label is affixed to the cap and bottle on the bottle of the developed solution (to prevent mistakes). The brick bottle says "BX".

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As the chemicals are ready, we will start developing. By loading a film on a putter sort tank that does not pass light, it will be possible to develop without a dark room.

At the beginning, I put water in a large plastic tub on the Sue Video/TCS-1000 min and the MAX mark (about half/3Gal).3gal/

10L) was inserted and the temperature was set to 39 ° C / 102 ℉. Then, I put two bottles with the cap closed in the water.

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Note: The loading of the medium format film is explained in the following chapter.

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For film development, warm a large plastic tub containing C-41 chemicals. When everything looks homogeneous, pour the hot water into 1L into the pitcher, mix it further, and pour the solution into a (foldable) bottle. It was said that it is important to put a label so that it does not fail during film development (good advice).

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The "D" label is affixed to the cap and bottle on the bottle of the developed solution (to prevent mistakes). The brick bottle says "BX".

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Mix the brick solution. According to the instructions, 600 ml of water was put in a clean plastic pitcher, and the bricks' "Part A" powder was added while mixing the crystals and sedimentation. When everything became homogenous, the solution was poured into the second clean storage bottle.The next step is to add the powder of the package with "Part B" to a storage bottle containing "Part A" solution. This caused a thermal absorption reaction, and the bottle was slightly warmed in the next 5 minutes.While warming the solution a little, we had to go back and forth between the storage bottle and the plastic pitcher. Then, when it became homogeneous and the crystals and sedimentation disappeared, we finally poured into the pitcher again and filled with 1L lukewarm water. Finally, the brick solution was put in a storage bottle. The air was carefully squeezed so that there is almost no air inside and sealed.

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CINESTILL CS41 COLOUR SIMPLIFIED powder concentrated kit.

Load a 35mm film into Patterson Reel.

As the chemicals are ready, we will start developing. By loading a film into a putter sort tank that does not allow light, it will be possible to develop without a dark room.

At the beginning, I put water in a large plastic tub on the Sue Video/TCS-1000 min and the MAX mark (about half/3gal).

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3gal/

10L) was inserted and the temperature was set to 39 ° C / 102 ℉. Then, I put two bottles with the cap closed in the water.Note: The loading of the medium format film is described in the following chapter.Warm a large plastic tub containing C-41 drugs for film development.

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It is troublesome to take out a film reader from a 35mm film canister. I do so because I don't want to break a good canister for mass loading. Also, instead of wrapping the film in a dark bag, it is easier to load a film on Patterson Reel if it is supplied little by little from the canister. Either the retriber is familiar or the muscles learn.

Sumigon Professional Film RitorverThe film retriber usually has three flexible plastic blades with a curved tip, and all of them need to be inserted into the canister at once.After that, it is necessary to rotate the core of the 35mm film canister (the protruding part) several times counterclockwise. At that time, listen to the soft sound of "click" when the leader top passes through the blade of the film retriber. Once a click once or twice, press the first plastic blade into the can. After the click sounds once or twice, press the first plastic blade into the can. Finally, pull the film retriber quickly (but not to be jerky).

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The first time may not work. I tried it a couple of times, but some people can do it right away.Finally, if you take out the film reader, you need to cut the tip so that it is flat. If the edge is curled a little, it will be easier to send it to the reel.To make it easier to work, I take out a 5-inch film from the canister and send it to Pattert Tank reel in the daytime. This amount is almost the same as the amount required to load the film into the camera.Prepare the film before loading it in putter sort tank reel in the changeing bag. Pay attention to the amount of films in each reel, where plastic wedge and film should be supplied.The upper and lower part of each reel rotate several times independently. To put the film into the reel, it is necessary to turn the two small rusts in the upper and lower part of the reel so that they are straight. Please refer to the photo of this article.

Once the wedge is lined up in a straight line, send the film just below the wool and pass the bearing about 1. 5 inches from the wedge. By doing this, it is fixed to a position that can be handled carefully without falling off the film.

Once the film is loaded onto the reels, the next step is to take the Patterson tank (which contains a funnel lid and a plastic core that is inserted into the reel) and scissors, and place them in the changing bag along with the film. I didn't use Sensei's bag at the dinner table because it contains some things that are bad for you. Before putting them inside, I lined up the scissors, reel core, and tank neatly so that you can't see where everything is. Of course, everything needs to be inside the changing bag and zipped up to keep out the light:

Load the 35mm film into the Patterson reel, then put the rest of the film into the changing bag.

After a few failed experiences, I learned to take it slow once the film is in the bag. In this process, you mechanically feed the film inside by turning the Patterson reel back and forth a little. If you do it too quickly or with too much force, it can cause problems in the changing bag that are difficult to fix.

You may feel some resistance at times, or hear the film crumpling. In those cases, I work carefully until all the film is in the reel and it's easy to turn the reel.

The advantage of feeding film from an intact canister onto a reel is that you can pull it out about 5 inches at a time and spin the reel in the air as the canister rises up. That way you can reach your finger and see, then pull out some more film. It's helpful to keep your thumb against the wedge (where the film enters the reel) when turning the reel in the dark bag. That way you can feel if there's any problem.

Patterson film squeegee. To get water droplets off the negatives.

I also learned that fingerprints are not usually a problem when loading undeveloped film onto a reel. Mine didn't show up on the scan, despite my awkward hand as a first-time chemist. But if they happen to be left behind after development, they will show up on the scan.

The 36exp./35mm film feels longer than you'd expect in the changing bag. Finally, leaving about two finger lengths of film in the canister, carefully cut it with scissors.

With the first roll of film on the reel, put the core on the reel (it doesn't matter which) and place it in the tank. If you're only developing one roll, or if you're developing a second roll, place the second reel on top of the core as well. Place the funnel lid on top. Twist the lid shut until it clicks. To double check that the lid is tight, turn the Paterson tank upside down in your changing bag.

You can now remove the Paterson tank from your changing bag and take it into the bathroom.

Loading medium format film into a Paterson reel.

Loading 35mm and medium format film has a lot in common. But there are also some key differences:

You need to adjust the Paterson reel to fit your film. Twist it counterclockwise to unlock, and twist it the other way to extend and lock.

120 film can't be preloaded into the reel, so you have to do everything in a dark bag. As with 35mm film, you will need a tank, tank funnel lid, reel, tank core, and scissors in your bag.

Start by gently loosening the film by running your fingers over it until you feel the emulsion. Separate the film from the paper. Optionally (in the dark) cut a corner a little to make it easier to fit into the reel. Medium format film is trickier to fit into a reel because of its large size and flexibility. It's okay to take a break.

Dip in developer and time your agitation.

Process color film in C-41 chemistry.

Compared to the preparation so far, developing in C-41 chemistry is on the easier side. Once you've poured the developer into your Patterson tank, you can hang your film to dry in under 12 minutes.

There are two steps: 1) develop at 39°C/102°F for 3. 5 minutes, and 2) bleach & fix for 8 minutes (6 minutes if using liquid chemistry, or according to package directions).

Both steps require agitation, a technique that involves inverting and rotating the Patterson tank to move the chemicals around inside. This should be done gently and continuously while holding both ends of the tank together. The first agitation (after pouring the developer or brix into the tank) should last about 10 seconds, followed by four inversion cycles (or one cycle of turning the tank upside down and then upside down).

After developing dozens of rolls with inverted techniques, I switched to a combination of using a stirring rod and hitting the tank every time I rotated 4 sets alternately. It has less physical burden, and there is little possibility of spilling chemicals.

I also learned that the step timing is important, but it doesn't have to be perfect. The film does not ruin a few seconds.

Elim Poon - Journalist, Creative Writer

Last modified: 27.08.2024

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